The field of RC has numerous different facets; there’s really something for everyone. Among the areas I’ve set my sights on mastering is definitely the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned in relation to driving sliding is superior to grip, more power does not mean a quicker vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic surpasses rubber. So when 3Racing sent over their Axial SCX10, I had to scoop one as much as see what every one of the hoopla was with this drifter.
WHO Causes It To Be: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any level of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Just How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for convenient learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning while watching motor or on the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?A lot of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips away from the roller bearing
This drifter has considerably opting for it; well manufactured, a great deal of pretty aluminum and rolls in with a very inexpensive price. Handling is good too once you become accustomed to the kit setup, and it also accepts a really number of body styles. There’s also a bunch of tunability for those that like to tinker, and this car should grow along as the skills do.
The D4’s chassis can be a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It offers cutouts on the bottom to the front and back diffs to peek through and also a bazillion countersunk holes. A large number of can be used for mounting things such as the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but you can find several left empty. They can be employed to control chassis flex, however, not with all the stock top deck; an optional you must be obtained. The layout is comparable to an ordinary touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and lastly the back bulkhead/ suspension. Everything is easy to access and replaceable with just a couple turns of some screws.
? Besides a number of interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is much like a touring car’s. A single A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are employed, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to improve them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The rear suspension uses vertical ball studs to manage camber and roll while the front uses an interesting, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This product allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on lower and upper pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and allows for some extreme camber settings.
? Something that’s pretty amazing with drift cars is the serious level of steering throw they already have. Starting with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart and as close to the edges in the chassis as you can. This creates a massive 65° angle, enough to manipulate the D4 in even the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend the majority of their time sideways, I wanted an excellent servo to keep up with the constant countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
While not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to keep up with any steering angle changes I needed it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 works with a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. An enormous, 92T 48P spur is linked to the central gear shaft, where front and rear belts meet. Pulleys maintain the front belt high higher than the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the ability towards the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to permit using a assortment of different wheel and tire combos.
? To provide the D4 a bit of beauty, I prefered 3racing Sakura D4 body from ABC Hobby. It is a beautiful replica of the car and included a slick list of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure how to paint it, nevertheless i do remember an approach I used a while back that got some attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a shot of pearl white around the underside, but painted the fenders black externally. After everything was dry, I shot the surface having a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I love the ultimate result … plus it was easy. That’s good because I’m an incredibly impatient painter!
ON THE TRACK
Just for this test, I had the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter upon the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I had been heading there to do an image shoot for one more vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and obtain some sideways action?
The steering in the D4 is pretty amazing. Because I mentioned earlier, the throw is a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from the parts. The CVD’s can make that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Even though it does look a little bit funny with all the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does a fantastic job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the appropriate direction. This is, partly, because of the awesome handling in the D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting is not about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I realize that sounds odd, but when you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your drifter, it is possible to control the angle of attack as well as the sideways motion through any corner. I came across Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to do exactly that make controlled, smooth throttle alterations in affect the angle of your D4 where and when I needed. Sliding inside a little shallow? Increase throttle to obtain the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up a little as well as the D4 would get back in line. It’s all an issue of ? nesse, as well as the Novak system is made for that. I have done have to be a little bit creative using the install in the system because of small space in the chassis, but overall it worked out great.
After driving hooked up touring cars for a time, it can do require a little getting used to with the knowledge that a car losing grip and sliding is the proper way throughout the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control after you have it, it’s beautiful. Having a car and pitching it sideways using a sweeper, in the mean time keeping the nose pointed in at below two or three inches from your curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled unmanageable thing, and the D4 can it wonderfully. The kit setup is good, but if you are like you need more of something anything there’s a lot of items to adjust. I just enjoyed the car together with the kit setup plus it was only a point of a battery pack or two before I was swinging the rear across the hairpins, around the carousel and back and forth through the chicane. I never had the chance to strap the battery in the diffuser, but that’s something I’m getting excited about.
There’s little that can be done to damage a drift car they’re really not going all that fast. I did so, however, offer an issue with the front side belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top level deck. During the initial run, it suddenly felt just like the D4 acquired a little drag brake. I kept from it, trying to overcome the situation with driving, but soon was required to RPM Traxxas Revo parts it in to actually take a look. During the build, the belt slips right into a plastic ‘tunnel’ that is certainly backed up by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted things like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square on the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, if the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide from the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it appears in touch with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a lengthier screw with a couple of 1mm shims to space the bearing out a tad bit more. Problem solved.